Automatic skeleton watch: skeleton or open heart, how to choose (2026 guide)
A skeleton watch shows what other watches hide: the balance wheel swinging, the wheels turning, the rotor winding the spring with every movement of your wrist. It is the most direct way to show that a watch is mechanical. This guide explains the difference between a skeleton and an open heart, what to look at before buying, and what you can expect from an automatic skeleton watch between 250 and 400 CHF.
Skeleton or open heart: two ways to show the movement
On a skeleton watch, the dial is almost entirely cut away: you see the movement from edge to edge, and often through a transparent caseback too. The effect is spectacular, very mechanical, and noticeable from several metres away. On an open heart watch, the dial stays solid with a single opening, usually around 9 o'clock, that shows the balance wheel beating. It is more discreet: the watch keeps a legible, classic dial, with a living detail you discover up close.
A simple rule: if you want a watch that gets noticed and tells the story of its mechanics, choose a skeleton. If you want an everyday watch, legible at the office and at the weekend, with a touch of visible mechanics, choose an open heart.
What to check before buying a skeleton watch
The movement must be automatic and named. The main trap in this category is quartz “skeleton” watches: you see a battery and a few decorative wheels, but nothing beats. A real automatic movement is recognisable by the rotor that spins freely when you move the watch, and by the balance wheel that swings continuously. Ask for the name of the movement maker, not just “automatic”.
Legibility matters more than on a classic watch. When the dial is cut away, the hands easily get lost in the movement. Look closely at the photo: broad hands in a colour that contrasts with the movement, and clear markers on the flange make all the difference day to day.
The crystal should be sapphire. A skeleton watch is made to be looked at: mineral glass that scratches within a few months spoils exactly what you paid to see. Sapphire with an anti-reflective coating keeps a clear view of the movement, even in bright light.
Be realistic about the finishing. In this price range, the movement is a robust industrial calibre, built to last and easy to repair, not a hand-decorated movement as in fine watchmaking. That is an advantage for reliability and servicing costs; you simply need to know it before comparing with pieces costing several thousand francs.
What budget for an automatic skeleton watch?
Under 150 CHF, most skeleton watches are quartz or use an unnamed automatic movement, with mineral glass. Between 250 and 400 CHF you find skeletons and open hearts on Japanese automatic movements, with sapphire crystal and a 316L steel case: this is where you pay for the watch, not the label. Above 2,000 CHF you pay for hand decoration of the movement and the name of the house.
Modora skeleton and open heart watches
Every watch in the skeleton and open heart selection shares the same base: a Seiko automatic movement, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, a 316L stainless steel case, a 316L steel bracelet with safety clasp and 10 ATM water resistance.
Skeletons: the Royalike Squelette Argent (CHF 299, 41 mm, integrated bracelet), the Nautiko Squelette (CHF 299, 40 mm), the Santeiko Squelette Édition Spéciale (CHF 329, 40 mm) and the Royalike Squelette Rose Édition Spéciale (CHF 399, rose gold PVD finish).
Open hearts: the Nautiko Bleu Open Heart (CHF 299, 40 mm), the Nautiko Chocolat Open Heart (CHF 299) and the Royalike Open Heart Bleu (CHF 299, 41 mm), for those who prefer a solid dial with the balance wheel on show.
Prices are in Swiss francs, shipping is free and tracked (9 to 14 business days, as each watch is assembled to order), the warranty is 2 years and you have 30 days to return an unworn watch.
Read next: the Seiko automatic movement explained, sapphire or mineral glass and looking after an automatic watch.
Frequently asked questions
Is a skeleton watch more fragile?
No, provided the crystal is sapphire and the case is steel. The movement is protected by the crystal exactly as on a classic watch; the only difference is that you can see it. Just avoid hard knocks, as with any mechanical watch.
Can you wear a skeleton watch with a suit?
Yes, especially an open heart or a silver skeleton on a steel bracelet, which stay understated under a shirt cuff. Gold or rose gold skeletons are bolder: perfect for a wedding or an evening out, more eye-catching for a meeting.
Does an automatic skeleton watch need a battery?
No. It winds itself through the movement of your wrist, and you can actually watch the rotor turn. Set down, it stops after about 40 hours and starts again as soon as it is back on your wrist.
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Royalike Squelette Argent
Nautiko Squelette
Santeiko Squelette Édition Spéciale
